Last week Matthew came and visited. Seeing him felt like coming up out of the water for a gulp of air. I have been so busy being brave, meeting people, and doing new things that I have not let myself recognize how severely I miss him. When I saw him in at the train station in Rennes, it felt like when you find that long-missing puzzle piece and put it together.

We had a week that was busy with a project and reconnecting. We spent each day stuck together like magnets. Matthew loved the way I had set up the house and enjoyed walking Sophie around the village. We worked more than played and that was my only regret. Matthew says that the next time he comes he wants to do nothing except explore and enjoy his new home.

We finished the week with a birthday celebration in Paris. We spent Saturday walking everywhere. We stayed at the Pullman Eiffel Tower Hotel, and walked miles and miles through the city. I wanted to see Montmarte as I had never been there before. We passed open markets selling beautiful roasted meats, cheese, breads, and flowers. The flowers blew me away. There were bouquets of ranunculus, clematis, roses, freesia, anenome, iris, and berries. There were tiny fir trees for Christmas, and little wreaths made with holly, boxwood and dried fruit. It all smelled and looked beautiful.

We had lunch at a sweet little brasserie and shared a bottle of Rose which always feels naughty at a lunchtime meal. I had a beautiful salad and Matthew had a charcuterie and cheese board that we shared. It was tremendous. After being fortified, we headed back out and began walking back to the Seine past the Moulin Rouge, Galleries, Lafayette, and Opera. The weather was clear and brisk and we snaked back towards the Eiffel Tower past the Place de Concorde and walked along the river in the afternoon sunshine.

Our feet were killing us. I have this fun condition called plantar fasciitis that seems to be another perk of being middle-aged. It is basically having a sharp knife in my left heel that aches or burns depending on its mood. I now wear my well-cushioned running shoes whenever I’m in the city-fashion be damned! I was actually limping in our last few miles and welcomed a rest at the Pullman before heading back out for a celebration dinner. It is funny, we walked about 10 miles but after a soak in the tub, I was game to put on some slightly nicer shoes and head to dinner.

First, we had cocktails in the beautiful bar at Trade which is located in the Pullman. Romantic lighting, endless olives and an attentive staff only enhanced the craft cocktails. We had such a special time and almost chose to eat there after watching delicious looking food being delivered to our bar mates. Instead, we walked to a tiny seafood spot called Abstinence. We were seated in the intimate bar space which faced an open kitchen that proved as entertaining as theater.

Abstinence is not the right name for this restaurant. We had the most beautiful salad with spinach, black truffle, shaved artichokes, parmesan, and a delicious vinagrette. It was so simple and beautiful and indulgent. Perhaps Indulgence would be a more appropriate name for this establishment. Our dinner was no less perfect. We had large prawns in a creamy curry with linguine. It was très magnifique.

We wandered to the Eiffel Tower and we timed it right at the hour mark so we could see the twinkly light show. Matthew bought me my own souvenir tower to serve as a night light back in St. Denis. I now have a twinkling tower of my own and I love it like a child would.

The only bad part of this day was that it ended. Matthew flew out to Boston early the next morning and it was hard not to feel devastated after he left. Chin up. I signed up for this after all.