Domfront This Week

I had ticked off the list of recommended hill towns that I visit, and I now had my eyes set on an afternoon in Domfront. Domfront is a medieval town about 30 kms from my village. It is now home to a new spice shop called Karma and I was motivated to go so I could get some Indian spices for upcoming curries.

I had also heard that the town’s Cathedral was spectacular and very different than the others that I have visited. It was a pretty ride across the countryside and the weather was sunny and perfect. I can’t get over the green of the fields. It’s November and they are still emerald green. Farmers are haying and planting still planting

Domfront rose up in front of me and was capped by a uniquely shaped cathedral. I parked at the bottom of the hill and walked up an extremely steep path to the old city. Domfront is marked by the ruins of the Chateau at one end, and the The Church of Saint-Julien at the other.

The Church of Saint-Julien was built between 1924 and 1926 by the architect Albert Guilbert and is unique for its square plan, elaborated mosaic decoration, and its fabrication of concrete. You walk in and it really stops you short.

Firstly, the structure seems improbable. Looking up at the vaulted ceiling and spire, one can’t help but wonder what is really holding it up. The walls are covered in beautiful mosaics and the most notable is behind the altar. It is a beautiful representation of Jesus and it really blows you away.

After a delicious Thai curry at the Brasserie across the street from the Church, I wandered to the Chateau de Domfront. I can’t even describe what it is like to walk the cobblestone streets in these medieval hill towns. I totally feel like I am on a film set and wonder why folks aren’t dressed in period costume.

The Castle is now in ruins but dates back to the 11th century. What is left is still beautiful. An imposing three story corner of the castle stands with ruins of the moat and outside walls sitting around it. The panoramic views from this place help you understand why it was such an important military stronghold in past wars and conflicts. You really feel like you are “King of the Hill” up here.