I’m not sure if my olfactory system has ever been this entertained. And if you know me, that’s saying something. France is not shy about her smells. Many smells seem more sharp than what I’m used to. Fresh bread; buttery croissants; cheese; manure; fermentation. Every new place I go has a smell and it is rarely subtle. I started thinking about this today while pedaling along to Le Houx this afternoon.

I took my first long ride on the bike Matthew bought me. It was a Mother’s Day present that waited for my move. I am as excited as a 6 year-old about this bike! It was wonderful to be back on a bike after a few weeks of running. The countryside around St. Denis de Gastines is green, and there are farms, fields and more fields. The smell of cow is prevalent and that makes sense as there are literally cows everywhere. I have counted at least 10 varieties of cow in my little area. I think most are dairy though some appear to be meat. They regard me suspiciously as I ride by them on my bike. Sometimes the calves get spooked by my approach and create a mini stampede away from the road. Mostly, the cows stare at me with indifference and give me a look that reads, “Just not too sure about you American girl”.

Matthew left early this morning and drove back to Paris where he climbed on a plane and flew back to Boston. We were both really sad to say goodbye. I think there is some relief in not having to anticipate it anymore. The last few weeks have been hard for me and I think it is largely because I have been worrying about how I could best make comfortable first Lily and then Matthew as they embarked on these new experiences. I was stressed myself so it was hard for me to share my energy and not freak out.

At the halfway point of my ride today, I encountered a large piece of farm equipment doing laps on a grassy field. I’m not sure what it was but it was expelling water with some incredibly ripe manure out of a large jet hose in the back. It just so happened that I came past it as it’s rear was facing me and just narrowly escaped being in sprayed in shit. Even not getting a direct hit, the smell made my eyes water.

Tonight I will have a cocktail and celebrate my first night on my own. I think I will have a bit of cheese and make something easy like frozen pizza. Sophie and I may make a small fire and cuddle while we watch t.v.

Viva la France.